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Landscaping Ideas 101
One of the biggest home improvement options is investing in outdoor landscaping (aka “Tree-scaping” for those that want a larger impact). January and February happen to be great months to consider improving the look and value of your home. While some of us like to pull out our blueprints, research all types of flowers bushes and trees, and call all over the state to get pricing ideas… most of us don’t enjoying doing such things!
This is why I have put together a little Landscaping 101 on easy yard improvements that add that “wow” factor. Below are suggestions, tips, and real life examples of “tree-scapes”.
First and foremost, the top 3 things to consider:
1. Amount of space to work with: Always consider the amount of space by doing a little research on the mature width and height of a tree
2. Color: Always consider the spring and fall color that trees provide
3. Seasons: Not all trees hold their leaves year long. Flower and shade trees drop their leaves while evergreens hold their vibrant needles throughout the winter months. Consider your yard when winter hits, will it be naked?
Below are a few examples of real life “tree-scapes”
“The Nosy Neighbor”
So for some of you that live in a cute residential neighborhood, you have come to realize your neighbors are not everything you would hope them to be! This beautiful (6-7′) Evergreen triangle does wonders for a smaller yard that is in dire need for privacy. Eventually there will be full coverage up and down, from side to side. This layout is also great for noise barriers and wind blocks. Approximate Cost: $800-$1,000
“The Nosy Neighbor II”
This Tree-Scape is ideal in a neighborhood setting, but also for those with a larger yard. In this specific case the evergreens are being used for privacy and also for shade. Showing are 8 Evergreens that vary in size from approximately 10-12′. Placing the Evergreens in a line, but staggering them a bit improves the overall aesthetic appeal of the yard. It also helps give your children boundaries when they are playing outside. Approximate Cost: $2,000 – $3,500
“Beauty & the Birch”
One of my favorite trees is the River Birch. I love the shape, the leaves, the color, and the peeling bark. A river birch can be placed anywhere, but I love it next to a house. Good spacing can be 8-10′ from the side of your home. The River Birch will naturally grow towards the light and won’t scrape the side of your home. River Birch can be used to add some shade to that window that always gets full sun. This can really help in energy savings. River birch are often placed in wet spots, because they love water! Approximate Cost: $300 – $500
“No Room, but I love Trees”
If you are in need of quick and inexpensive coverage, an addition to your beautiful landscape, or a way to line your property, Arborvitaes are the way to go. These evergreens hold their needles year round, which show for a beautiful winter holiday, and are sold in many different varieties. Most peak at about 10-15′ which is ideal for privacy and small landscape trees. They are also a great economy size. This picture shows 10 Arborvitae at about 7′. Approximate Cost: $1,200 – $1,400
“Show Me the Shade”
One of the most practical shade trees to purchase is a Maple. Some great varieties include Red Sunset Maple, October Glory Maple, Emerald Queen Maple, and Norway Maple. These trees are ideal because they grow fast and provide a great amount of shade. Maples also work great in pairs because they turn all different shades in the fall ranging from yellows to oranges to reds. I believe every yard should have at least one maple. They work great in the front, side, and back yard. The picture shows 3 Red Sunset Maples approximately 16-18′. Approximate Cost: $1,000 -$1,300
These are just a few simple landscaping ideas that apply both shade and evergreen trees to your yard. More ideas will be coming in Landscaping Ideas 201, so keep an eye out! If you have any suggestions or questions do not hesitate to e-mail us at info@affordabletrees.com and I will not hesitate to add it to our next blog. You may also send in a picture of your yard for personal suggestions if you wish.
For more ideas on pricing you can visit our pricing page here.
Thanks for reading!
Proper Watering in Fall
As of September 22, 2009 at 5:18 pm, we were officially into the “fall” season. The trees (if they haven’t already) will begin to display a colorful splash of oranges, reds, and yellows. It is important to ease your trees into dormancy, while you continue to water! Below are a few common questions we get around this time of the year.
Why do I need to water in the fall?
Although the trees are beginning to go dormant, it is important to give them a nice and long last drink of water before the ground freezes. When the ground is frozen and snow is piled inches high, the trees cannot draw water from the ground. This puts the trees in danger for “winter burn” later down the road. According to David Beaulieu, writer for landscaping.about.com, ”Properly watering the plants in fall, then, can be an effective means of minimizing injury to trees and shrubs during the winter”. David also suggests occasionally watering in late autumn/winter.
You keep saying “water your trees until they are dormant”, well how do I know when my tree goes dormant?
Once the leaves begin shedding, the tree is entering dormancy. Trees should be properly watered once a week, until the ground is frozen.
Now what? The tree is dormant, do I need to water any longer in the winter?… how do I know when to start watering again?
When and if temperatures rise above freezing, it would be a good idea to get outside and give your trees a good soak. Other than that, you can expect to begin watering again in the early spring when temperatures are consistently warming up. The trees will begin to ”awake” from dormancy when you notice the buds beginning to unfirl. (the same way you see a Rose unfirl)
Winter Burn
Winter Burn on White Pine
The above picture, taken from an article by Purdue University, is a white pine suffering from winter burn. Purdue Horticulture states, ”Over the course of a day, a large tree can lose hundreds of gallons of water. When plants are unable to obtain the water they need (due to drought or frozen soil), the water lost through transpiration cannot be replenished, resulting in dehydration, foliar damage, and even death.” So remember to water throughout the fall and even into the winter for a healthy tree!
Source: http://www.ppdl.purdue.edu/PPDL/weeklypics/6-2-08.html
Evergreen Needles Not Always Green
If you happen to notice yellowing needles on your evergreens, do not fret!
Is the yellowing on the inside?
Inside yellowing on evergreens is completely natural and is part of their growth life cycle. Although the evergreen holds its needles all year long, some old needles drop off to make room for new growth. According to Iowa State Extension, “Environmental stresses, such as drought and hot temperatures, may cause greater-than-normal loss of needles”. Yellowing from the top to the bottom on the inside of the evergreen is often taken as a “disease”, but relax as it is completely natural and healthy. University of Illinois Extension also adds, “Weather conditions, age of the plant and genetics all contribute to when needles drop.”
Is the evergreen yellowing at the tips?
If the evergreen is yellowing at the tips there may be more serious issues. University of Illinois Extension states, “If new growth is weak or turning brown, injury or disease may be involved”. If you have evergreens make sure to examine the placement of yellowing. Inside is okay, new growth yellowing is not!
Regardless, if there is needle drop, do not feel the need to rake! The needles serve as a mulch/weed barrier.
Refer to our sources for additional reading on the topic!
We are proud of our Roots
As we begin to move into the fall season we would like to shed some light on our Anderson tree farm (one of two farms that are currently open to the public). Our Anderson farm, formerly “Gaar’s Nursery” holds much history to it’s name and we would like to begin mapping out that history to the public. Below is our ongoing memorabilia, located in our office, recognizing Gaar’s accomplishments and contributions to the community …
Four generations in, Gaar’s Nursery began in Milton, Indiana when William Henry Gaar purchased a small nursery from his friend David Lee.William Henry ( often referred to as Billy) operated the Nursery with the help of his son, Milton Henry (16 yrs old). The nursery soon moved to East Germantown where William Henry grew and sold plants until he retired. His son, Milton (picture below) added landscaping in 1910 and moved the Nursery to Cambridge City, Indiana.
Milton Gaar, Second Generation
As landscaping grew in demand, Milton decided to open a branch in Chesterfield, Indiana in the year 1928. Milton’s son, Howard Gaar, graduated from Earlham College and began to work with his father in 1932.
Now with two locations buzzing, the Great Depression came with a bang. The business was thrown into receivership by a foreclosure suit and Howard was hired to sell out the nursery stock at Chesterfield while his brother-in-law was hired to sell out the nursery stock in Cambridge City. Determined to save the much appreciated Gaar’s Nursery, Howard and his wife Mildred purchased what was left at Chesterfield while Howard’s sister Evelyn and husband Campbell Brower purchased what was left at Cambridge City. They both continued to operate business independently.
Howard Gaar, fourth from the left, receiving the "Green Survivor City" award.
In 1942, during World War II, Howard was draft age and in a business non-essential to the war. Accordingly, he went to work at Delco Remy in a war-related job. In order to keep the business from closing, Howard’s wife Mildred kept the office open. There was one landscape crew installing plants that Howard could sell in off-hours from Delco, and two or three men working in the field. Howard gave notice at Delco the day the Japanese surrendered. Mildred continued to work in the office until she was 90.
As Chesterfield began to grow physically and throughout the community, Barry Gaar (son of Howard Gaar) continued the fourth generation to own and operate Gaar’s Nursery after graduating from Purdue in 1959. Phil Gaar, graduation from Purdue in 1961, also stepped in to help own and operate the family business.
Phil Gaar, to this day, working out in the farm
Through trials and tribulations, Gaar property still operates in the same location, but now as “Affordable Trees” . We are lucky to still have Phil Gaar on board with us, working and teaching employees. With his help we have lined out our first set of bare-root trees on the property in the summer of 2009. The legacy of Gaar’s Nursery will continue to be a topic of conversation at our farm. Can you think of a nursery as long lived as Gaar Nursery?
Black Walnut Toxicity
The Black Walnut Tree, a large and common deciduous tree, produces more than just edible nuts. The roots, buds, and nut hulls produce a chemical called “Juglone”. According to Purdue University, “Juglone has experimentally been shown to be a respiration inhibitor which deprives sensitive plants of needed energy for metabolic activity”. The toxic zone from a mature tree occurs on average in a 50-60′ radius but can be up to 80′. The following is information about trees that are sensitive and tolerant to Juglone. Note: These are based upon observations and not clinical tests.
Tolerant:
- Japanese Maples
- Southern Catalpa
- Eastern Redbud
- Canadian Hemlock
- Arborvitae
- Sycamore
- Elm
- Red Cedar
- Hawthorn
- Oak
Sensitive:
- White Birch
- Ornamental Cherries
- Red Chokecherry
- Crabapples
- Silver Maple
- Pear
- White Pine
- Norway Spruce
- Apple Tree
For more information on specific varieties that are tolerant/intolerant to Juglone please refer to our sources.
According to the University of Minnesota, “There is no chemical control available to stop the potentially toxic effect of black walnut roots. The only practical control is physical separation. Cutting down and removing the tree is of limited help, unless all roots are removed from the soil. As indicated, black walnut leaves probably give off little juglone. But to be on the safe side, it is best to rake up the leaves, and to avoid using the bark or chips as a mulch.”
Sources: http://www.ces.purdue.edu/extmedia/HO/HO-193.pdf, http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1148.html, http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/h407blkwal-tox.html
Maple Gall Mites
A common concern with maple owners is Maple Gall Mites, tiny little red or green balls on their maple leaves. According to the University of Wisconsin, “Maple leaves frequently develop growths or swellings known as “galls”. These are caused by microscopic mites. The form and color of the gall indicates which species of mite is the culprit. If a tree is heavily infested, its foliage becomes distorted and drops prematurely. But usually the injury is only temporary, and the tree’s vigor does not deteriorate significantly.” Maple Galls can be noticed in early May as a green color, eventually turning into a pinkish red and finally into a black.
Red Maple Gall Mites on Maple
What do the mites do?: The adult mites become active very early in spring, just as buds begin to open. As they feed on the developing leaf tissue, growth regulating chemicals produced by the mites interact with plant hormones causing an abnormal stimulation of cell growth. This abnormal growth forms the galls that gradually enclose the mites. Each mite species produces slightly different substances, resulting in the different characteristic gall shapes. The mites get nutrients from the inner gall tissue and are protected from natural enemies (University of Wisconsin).
How many types of gall are there?: There are three types of gall; maple bladder, maple spindle, and erineum gall mites.
How can I control Maple Gall?: Although control is not required, and damage done by maple galls is neither significant and/or long lasting… the following are options a tree owner can take (Ohio State University)
Strategy 1: Use Resistant Maples – Norway maples and some of the named cultivars of maples with outstanding red or yellow leaf color appear to be resistant to these gall mites and midges. Talk to the plant supplier to see if the tree cultivar has a history of leaf gall problems or not.
Strategy 2: Dormant Oils – Use of dormant oils on maples is discouraged because leaf and twig damage can result unless the tree is truly dormant. However, some reports of success have been made where the trunk has been drenched with dormant oil to kill the overwintering stages of the bladder gall and spindle gall mites.
Strategy 3: Standard Insecticide/Miticide Sprays – Several insecticides and miticides are registered for control of gall mites (eriophyid mites) and gall midges. If these products are to be used, they have to be applied precisely when the new leaf buds are opening. Most sprays have little, if any, effect because the window of opportunity is very short. Once the gall has formed, it is too late to make an application.
Strategy 4: Systemic Insecticides/Miticides – Several systemic pesticides (sprayed, soil injected or trunk injected) have been recommended as useful in controlling these gall forming pests. However little evidence of success has been found in the current literature. Once the gall has formed, it is too late to make an application.
Resources and Additional Reading: http://learningstore.uwex.edu/pdf/A2691.pdf, http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2004.html, http://www.ca.uky.edu/entomology/entfacts/ef404.asp, http://www.hort.wisc.edu/mastergardener/Features/insects/maplegallmite/maplegallmite.pdf, http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/O&T/trees/note04/note04.html
How to’s and When to’s
Good day everyone! I have collected some valuable information from credible universities of the how to’s and when to’s of tree care. Any questions or suggestions? Feel free to e-mail us at info@affordabletrees.com … Enjoy!
Everything you need to know about Fertilizing:
- When can I Fertilize? : October through March are the best times to fertilize. Soil moisture and temperature conditions are best during these periods, and this will ensure that the fertilizer will be in place at the beginning of the growing season when maximum benefit will be realized. Root growth is best during this time also.
- Do I need to fertilize? : Fertilization can be beneficial if symptoms of a nutrient-deficient tree include a slow rate and low amount of annual growth on twigs and trunk, smaller than normal foliage, off-color foliage, increased amounts of dead branches, tip die-back in branches, and increased rates of disease and insect problems. Trees that possess these symptoms generally would respond to a fertilization treatment
- Be Aware: Too frequent or too heavy fertilization may cause nutrients to build up to toxic levels. This may be avoided by periodic soil testing which will show abnormally high or low nutrient levels.
- Recommended fertilization methods: www.affordabletrees.com/treecare or a granular fertilizer called 12-12-12
Sources: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-618.html
Everything you need to know about pruning:
- Why should I prune?: Reasons for pruning can be broken down into 4 categories: training , maintaining, improving the quality of your tree, and controlling growth.
- When should I prune?: Light pruning can be done any time of the year to remove die back. Extensive pruning should be done in late winter to early spring. This is the best time of the year to prune because wound closure is more rapid (before new shoots emerge), there are few insects/disease spores to infest pruning cuts, and deciduous trees have dropped their leaves so it’s easier to see what your pruning!
- How to Prune: Correct pruning means making a clean, angled cut at the point where a branch attaches, either to another branch or to the trunk of the tree. This is a “thinning” cut. Do not cut into the branch bark ridge or the collar — that darkened, rough bark tissue above and below the branch’s point of attachment. Below is an instructional video on how to properly prune.
Sources: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/1730.html, http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/columngw/grprune.html
Everything you need to know about spraying bagworms:
- About bagworms: Bagworms have a very wide host range but are usually associated with arborvitae or juniper. A single bagworm does relatively little harm as it feeds on leaves. Excessive defoliation may kill conifers within one or two seasons. They hatch in May and June. Upon reaching a suitable host, the worm begins to spin its bag and as it grows, it incorporates some of the host plant foliage into the bag for camouflage.
Picture of an Adult Bagworm
Spraying for bagworms:
- Option 1-Cultural Control-Mechanical Hand Picking If the bags are few in number and easily reached they may be picked off the plant and squashed. This can be done easily in the late fall when deciduous foliage has been dropped or the bits of plant material on the bags turn brown and can be easily located on evergreens. Be sure to cut the attachment silk band so that the branch will not be girdled in the future.
- Option 2-Biological Control-Use the Bacterial Spray Bt The bacterium, Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), is effective against bagworms if it is used against young larvae. Applications should be made at the end of June after all the eggs have hatched and the larvae are through ballooning.
- Option 3-Chemical Control-Insecticide Sprays Stomach insecticides are very useful for control of bagworms. Remember that the plant foliage is to be thoroughly covered because the larvae are protected from contact by being in the silk bag. Again, early sprays in spring against young larvae are more effective than later applications
- Option 4- Preventative Control-Dormant Oil: In the winter spray with a dormant oil to smother overwintering insect eggs without damaging plants.
Sources: http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2149.html, http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/O&T/trees/ort081e/ort081e.htm
Breaking Down Misconceptions!
Hope everyone had an amazing Memorial Day! The weather is starting to heat up, so make sure you water water water! I brainstormed up some common misconceptions within the horticulture industry that I would love to clear up! Feel free to comment, e-mail us, or follow our other interactive websites (www.twitter.com/affordabletrees) or find us on facebook (search: Affordable Trees).
1. Is it too late to plant a tree?
The following video may help clear the misconception http://www2.hcs.ohio-state.edu/tape12/movie1204/movie1204.mov. According to Ohio Buckeye Extension, “the biggest misconception in landscaping is people think they can’t plant in the summer, they only can plant in the spring or fall. Actually, the trees can only be dug in the spring before they leave out or after the fall if we have had one or two frosts”. You can plant a tree at anytime!
2. Should my tree be planted with the burlap sack and steel cage still on it?
Affordable Trees purchased biodegradable material, so leaving on the material is not harmful and actually proves to be beneficial. Iowa State University says, “If the root ball is exceptionally sturdy, all burlap, sisal and synthetic twine, and the wire basket can be removed before backfilling begins, however, removing these materials at this stage may result in the loss of root ball integrity and cause root damage.” The burlap and cage promote sturdy root growth and help keep the tree stable in the ground.
http://www.hort.iastate.edu/turfgrass/pubs/turfrpt/1997/ornstudy/Treplant.pdf
3. Should I mulch or add topsoil back on top of the tree?
One very common question is why mulch is so vital to the survival of your newly installed tree? According to North Carolina State, “Mulching trees and shrubs is a good method to reduce landscape maintenance and keep plants healthy. Mulch helps conserve moisture — 10 to 25 percent reduction in soil moisture loss from evaporation. Mulches help keep the soil well aerated by reducing soil compaction that results when raindrops hit the soil. They also reduce water runoff and soil erosion. Mulches prevent soil and possible fungi from splashing on the foliage —- thus reducing the likelihood of soil-borne diseases. They help maintain a more uniform soil temperature (warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer) and promote the growth of soil microorganisms and earth worms.” I also personally think mulching around the tree gives it a nicer look and helps alleviate the pain of mowing beneath the tree. On the flip side, adding topsoil can “can reduce the movement of oxygen to tree roots, causing them to die”, according to Iowa State University.
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/trees-new/text/muching.html
http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Publications/SUL2.pdf
4. Raising the ball above grade
According to Iowa State, “the depth of the planting hole should be approximately two-thirds of the height of the root ball. When placed in the hole, the top one-third of the soil ball should be above the surrounding soil”. With Indiana’s clay soil, it is important to promote the drainage of water. Denny Schuch, a tree expert in the Sheridan location, says “The number one killer of trees is kindness”. Placing trees above grade will help prevent over watering.
http://www.ces.purdue.edu/extmedia/fnr/fnr-faq-18-w.pdf
5. I have an “irrigation” system, isn’t that enough?
I often find it the case that tree owners with irrigation systems tend to have watering issues. Irrigation systems are designed for turf, shrubs, and shallow-rooted plants, all of which have different requirements than a newly installed tree. If an irrigation system is in place, make sure you are still checking soil conditions and adding or prolonging watering sessions. If watering is an issue, I recommend investing in a tree gator. (http://www.treegator.com/)
6. Should I amend the soil?
“Contrary to popular belief, soil removed from the planting hole is the most appropriate backfill material. Soil amendments like peat moss, ground bark, and composted manures mixed with the native oil and used as backfill have not proven beneficial to tree establishment. In fact, studies have shown tree root systems in amended soils remain confined to the amended soil in the planting hole, while trees planted without the “benefit” of soil amendments developed roots far beyond the original planting hole. And on poorly-drained sites, soil amendments can collect too much water. Because amended soil has greater pore space than surrounding clay soil, water will move into it preferentially.”
http://www.hort.iastate.edu/turfgrass/pubs/turfrpt/1997/ornstudy/Treplant.pdf
New Tree Care
The most important factor in caring for your newly planted tree(s) is watering. All trees need watering especially newly planted ones that have not yet had a chance to develop the root structures to gather water. Trees will benefit more from infrequent deep watering as opposed to frequent light watering. It is important to note that sprinkler systems are not sufficient for watering trees, they are only meant for lawns. Another very important note is that watering too frequently or watering with too much water is as injurious as under-watering.
So, how do you water your tree(s)? The first thing to do is check how moist the soil is around the root ball. Pull away some mulch and dig down into the soil 4-6″ alongside the root ball. If the soil is wet or moist, do not water. If the soil feels cool to the touch but not yet dry, it’s time to water. If you wait until the soil is dry and crumbly, the soil will have a hard time absorbing the water you apply and your tree(s) might have already started to become stressed. By following this method, your tree(s) might stay moist for up to 2 weeks. Sandy or well drained soils, periods of warm weather, or other factors might increase the need to water. By checking your soil frequently in the beginning, you will be able to determine the watering schedule that works best for your tree(s). In winter months, the natural rainfall should be sufficient for even newly installed trees.
Visit our ‘Tree Care’ page on our website at www.affordabletrees.com/treecare for photos and step-by-step instructions.
Happy watering!
Hello Green World!
Welcome to the brand new Affordable Trees blog. Our goal with this blog is to further serve you, our customer, with great tips, information, and deals about the trees and plants we bring to our communities and homes. The green trend we are in is nothing new, back in 1976 during the Bicentennial I was promoting Green Survival, small steps each of us can take to protect, improve and support our lives. Affordable Trees and I are still following that same important message today. We believe trees and plants are valuable gifts from nature that improve the lives of us all.
We know that the majority of our customers never have and never really want to be too deeply exposed to landscaping and gardening. So, we created this blog to provide advice and tips that will help you enjoy the wonders of plants and trees and educate you on why you should use green growing plants.
Please check in with us from time to time or simply subscribe for important information on how to enjoy your trees and plants. Remember, being green is not something you watch, it is something you do!
…it depends on you, so plant a tree today!