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Don’t Let Height Fool You!
When looking into purchasing a tree, one important factor to consider is maturity. We all want that fully grown shade tree in our yard tomorrow, better yet, today! Age is a crucial factor when deciding to purchase and install a tree. A ten-year-old tree is always preferred to a five-year-old tree.
So how do we tell how old a tree is? One common misconception is to determine age solely by height. This would be like determining a human’s age just by height. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t.
There is a national standard for measuring nursery stock, and I will explain.
You will be reading about two popular ways to measure trees: height and caliper. A tree’s caliper is the diameter measured in inches, while the height is measured in feet.
Below are stages of a tree’s life and the standard form of measurement:
Liners
All trees start out as liners, and are grown on until they are marketable. More recently, online websites have started to sell bundles of liners to consumers. Because of how small these trees are, they are measured by height.
Container Trees
Container trees are the middle ground between growing a tree and selling a tree. They are easy for the customer who wants to pick out a tree, take it home, and plant it on their own. Container trees are popularly sold at box stores and nurseries. They range in height, but typically are sold between 1-3” caliper, depending on tree variety.
Balled & Burlapped (B&B) Trees
B&B trees tend to be the most mature. Once a tree is a B&B tree, it is only measured by caliper. These trees are usually handled by tree professionals, and have a large range in height depending on tree variety.
Exceptions: this blog is meant to introduce the consumer to how nursery stock is measured. There are a few exceptions for evergreen and flowering trees. If you’re interested in learning more, check out the American Standard for Nursery Stock: http://www.jerseygrown.nj.gov/jgstandards.pdf
Planting Trees in Fall
Right now we are in the ideal time to plant shade, flowering, and evergreen trees. It is true that B&B (Balled & Burlapped) trees can be planted all year round, however, fall has always been a prominent planting season and we will explain why.
Fall and dormancy:
- Trees enter dormancy (hibernation) during the winter months. Deciduous trees prepare for this by shedding their leaves.
- During dormancy, no growth occurs in the upper branches and attention is given to growing a stronger root system. This stronger root system will better support foliage growth in the spring. (Buckeye Gardening)
- Purdue notes the ‘best time’ to plant trees is mid August to the beginning of October (aka, now!)
Anderson Location Only
Our Valued Customers and Friends,
We have felt these economic conditions, over the past two years, in a big way. This has created a few difficult decisions to be made in order to maintain our strong quality, prices, and services to you, our valued customer. Over the past two years we have had two members leave the company, not out of want, but out of need to continue to grow their financial security for their own future. We have lost some outstanding employees because we could not continue to afford to pay them what they were worth. Our long term plan was based on volume and duplication. With a decrease in disposable income and loss of jobs and homes our volume is down over 50%. Taking all of these variables into consideration, we have decided not to purchase the Sheridan land and to put all of our emphasis into the old Garr Nursery that was purchased in 2007. With over 120 acres of land and thousands of trees and evergreens growing, this facility provides an ease of access for our Indiana based customers and a wonderful structure in place. We moved our headquarters and staff there in 2009. This farm is located on the south east corner of Anderson, Indiana, just two miles west of I-69. Given that our installation crews have been doing such an excellent job and more and more customers are being serviced over the phone and through the internet, Anderson has become our ideal headquarters. This decision was not taken lightly; however, Affordable Trees will no longer be operating at the Sheridan facility. Our main concentration is to continue to reduce debt, grow quality trees, and continue to embrace our customer with great service and great prices. I would like to thank you for your past and future business with us.
Affordable Trees
If you take care of your lawn, why not your trees?
Hundreds of dollars are spent every year by homeowners ensuring their grass is green and growing. Lawn treatment companies plan multiple visits each year to spray, aerate, and seed the lawn. So, why is there so much focus on lawn maintenance but none on tree maintenance? Let’s start with a simple drawing.
Trees need 16 elements to grow and survive. These elements come from the air, water, and the soil. Air and water provide Carbon (C), Hydrogen (H), and Oxygen (O). The other 13 elements come from within the soil and can be broken down into macro and micro nutrients. As the picture displays:
Micro-Nutrients: Boron (B), Copper (Cu), Iron (Fe), Chloride (Cl), Manganese (Mn), Molybdenum (Mo), and Zinc (Zn). These nutrients are only needed in small quantities (hence the name “Micro”)
Macro-Nutrients: Macro-nutrients can be broken down into primary and secondary nutrients.
- Secondary Nutrients: There is usually enough of Calcium (Ca), Magnesium (Mg), and Sulfer (S) within the soil. We run into problems when it comes to Primary Nutrients.
- Primary Nutrients: Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) are the three primary nutrients. Basic suburban homes most often lack one or all of these nutrients.
- Nitrogen: Responsible for the green pigment essential for photosynthesis. It also aids in tree growth.
- Phosphorus: Also an essential part of photosynthesis, aids in growth, and encourages root growth.
- Potassium: Helps reduce disease and aids in photosynthesis
How do you know if your soil is deficient?
Soil tests will provide accurate answers, however it is common to use basic granular fertilizer’s for a “just-in-case” basis
When do I fertilize?
Good times to fertilizer include fall (after the leaves have fallen off) and early spring (right before the buds start breaking and the tree begins to leaf out). These extra nutrients in fertilizer will help top growth of the tree and the overall look. Newly transplanted trees should not be fertilized for at least 6-8 weeks.
How do I take care of newly installed trees?
Root Grow/Stimulator is great for newly installed trees. This will help ease any transplant shock as well as promote root growth. Root growth is important to establish the tree to live a long and healthy life. After root growth comes top growth, so the tree must be established before you see any top growth!
What else can I do to take care of my trees?
Aside from building proper watering techniques, fertilizing, and root growth, a treatment we highly recommend is systemic injections. Tree injections are similar to human IV’s. The liquid can be injected directly into the tree’s vascular system to help boost a tree’s “immune system”. More information about systemic injections can be found at www.mauget.com
Landscaping Ideas 101
One of the biggest home improvement options is investing in outdoor landscaping (aka “Tree-scaping” for those that want a larger impact). January and February happen to be great months to consider improving the look and value of your home. While some of us like to pull out our blueprints, research all types of flowers bushes and trees, and call all over the state to get pricing ideas… most of us don’t enjoying doing such things!
This is why I have put together a little Landscaping 101 on easy yard improvements that add that “wow” factor. Below are suggestions, tips, and real life examples of “tree-scapes”.
First and foremost, the top 3 things to consider:
1. Amount of space to work with: Always consider the amount of space by doing a little research on the mature width and height of a tree
2. Color: Always consider the spring and fall color that trees provide
3. Seasons: Not all trees hold their leaves year long. Flower and shade trees drop their leaves while evergreens hold their vibrant needles throughout the winter months. Consider your yard when winter hits, will it be naked?
Below are a few examples of real life “tree-scapes”
“The Nosy Neighbor”
So for some of you that live in a cute residential neighborhood, you have come to realize your neighbors are not everything you would hope them to be! This beautiful (6-7′) Evergreen triangle does wonders for a smaller yard that is in dire need for privacy. Eventually there will be full coverage up and down, from side to side. This layout is also great for noise barriers and wind blocks. Approximate Cost: $800-$1,000
“The Nosy Neighbor II”
This Tree-Scape is ideal in a neighborhood setting, but also for those with a larger yard. In this specific case the evergreens are being used for privacy and also for shade. Showing are 8 Evergreens that vary in size from approximately 10-12′. Placing the Evergreens in a line, but staggering them a bit improves the overall aesthetic appeal of the yard. It also helps give your children boundaries when they are playing outside. Approximate Cost: $2,000 – $3,500
“Beauty & the Birch”
One of my favorite trees is the River Birch. I love the shape, the leaves, the color, and the peeling bark. A river birch can be placed anywhere, but I love it next to a house. Good spacing can be 8-10′ from the side of your home. The River Birch will naturally grow towards the light and won’t scrape the side of your home. River Birch can be used to add some shade to that window that always gets full sun. This can really help in energy savings. River birch are often placed in wet spots, because they love water! Approximate Cost: $300 – $500
“No Room, but I love Trees”
If you are in need of quick and inexpensive coverage, an addition to your beautiful landscape, or a way to line your property, Arborvitaes are the way to go. These evergreens hold their needles year round, which show for a beautiful winter holiday, and are sold in many different varieties. Most peak at about 10-15′ which is ideal for privacy and small landscape trees. They are also a great economy size. This picture shows 10 Arborvitae at about 7′. Approximate Cost: $1,200 – $1,400
“Show Me the Shade”
One of the most practical shade trees to purchase is a Maple. Some great varieties include Red Sunset Maple, October Glory Maple, Emerald Queen Maple, and Norway Maple. These trees are ideal because they grow fast and provide a great amount of shade. Maples also work great in pairs because they turn all different shades in the fall ranging from yellows to oranges to reds. I believe every yard should have at least one maple. They work great in the front, side, and back yard. The picture shows 3 Red Sunset Maples approximately 16-18′. Approximate Cost: $1,000 -$1,300
These are just a few simple landscaping ideas that apply both shade and evergreen trees to your yard. More ideas will be coming in Landscaping Ideas 201, so keep an eye out! If you have any suggestions or questions do not hesitate to e-mail us at info@affordabletrees.com and I will not hesitate to add it to our next blog. You may also send in a picture of your yard for personal suggestions if you wish.
For more ideas on pricing you can visit our pricing page here.
Thanks for reading!
Proper Watering in Fall
As of September 22, 2009 at 5:18 pm, we were officially into the “fall” season. The trees (if they haven’t already) will begin to display a colorful splash of oranges, reds, and yellows. It is important to ease your trees into dormancy, while you continue to water! Below are a few common questions we get around this time of the year.
Why do I need to water in the fall?
Although the trees are beginning to go dormant, it is important to give them a nice and long last drink of water before the ground freezes. When the ground is frozen and snow is piled inches high, the trees cannot draw water from the ground. This puts the trees in danger for “winter burn” later down the road. According to David Beaulieu, writer for landscaping.about.com, ”Properly watering the plants in fall, then, can be an effective means of minimizing injury to trees and shrubs during the winter”. David also suggests occasionally watering in late autumn/winter.
You keep saying “water your trees until they are dormant”, well how do I know when my tree goes dormant?
Once the leaves begin shedding, the tree is entering dormancy. Trees should be properly watered once a week, until the ground is frozen.
Now what? The tree is dormant, do I need to water any longer in the winter?… how do I know when to start watering again?
When and if temperatures rise above freezing, it would be a good idea to get outside and give your trees a good soak. Other than that, you can expect to begin watering again in the early spring when temperatures are consistently warming up. The trees will begin to ”awake” from dormancy when you notice the buds beginning to unfirl. (the same way you see a Rose unfirl)
Winter Burn
Winter Burn on White Pine
The above picture, taken from an article by Purdue University, is a white pine suffering from winter burn. Purdue Horticulture states, ”Over the course of a day, a large tree can lose hundreds of gallons of water. When plants are unable to obtain the water they need (due to drought or frozen soil), the water lost through transpiration cannot be replenished, resulting in dehydration, foliar damage, and even death.” So remember to water throughout the fall and even into the winter for a healthy tree!
Source: http://www.ppdl.purdue.edu/PPDL/weeklypics/6-2-08.html
Evergreen Needles Not Always Green
If you happen to notice yellowing needles on your evergreens, do not fret!
Is the yellowing on the inside?
Inside yellowing on evergreens is completely natural and is part of their growth life cycle. Although the evergreen holds its needles all year long, some old needles drop off to make room for new growth. According to Iowa State Extension, “Environmental stresses, such as drought and hot temperatures, may cause greater-than-normal loss of needles”. Yellowing from the top to the bottom on the inside of the evergreen is often taken as a “disease”, but relax as it is completely natural and healthy. University of Illinois Extension also adds, “Weather conditions, age of the plant and genetics all contribute to when needles drop.”
Is the evergreen yellowing at the tips?
If the evergreen is yellowing at the tips there may be more serious issues. University of Illinois Extension states, “If new growth is weak or turning brown, injury or disease may be involved”. If you have evergreens make sure to examine the placement of yellowing. Inside is okay, new growth yellowing is not!
Regardless, if there is needle drop, do not feel the need to rake! The needles serve as a mulch/weed barrier.
Refer to our sources for additional reading on the topic!
We are proud of our Roots
As we begin to move into the fall season we would like to shed some light on our Anderson tree farm (one of two farms that are currently open to the public). Our Anderson farm, formerly “Gaar’s Nursery” holds much history to it’s name and we would like to begin mapping out that history to the public. Below is our ongoing memorabilia, located in our office, recognizing Gaar’s accomplishments and contributions to the community …
Four generations in, Gaar’s Nursery began in Milton, Indiana when William Henry Gaar purchased a small nursery from his friend David Lee.William Henry ( often referred to as Billy) operated the Nursery with the help of his son, Milton Henry (16 yrs old). The nursery soon moved to East Germantown where William Henry grew and sold plants until he retired. His son, Milton (picture below) added landscaping in 1910 and moved the Nursery to Cambridge City, Indiana.
Milton Gaar, Second Generation
As landscaping grew in demand, Milton decided to open a branch in Chesterfield, Indiana in the year 1928. Milton’s son, Howard Gaar, graduated from Earlham College and began to work with his father in 1932.
Now with two locations buzzing, the Great Depression came with a bang. The business was thrown into receivership by a foreclosure suit and Howard was hired to sell out the nursery stock at Chesterfield while his brother-in-law was hired to sell out the nursery stock in Cambridge City. Determined to save the much appreciated Gaar’s Nursery, Howard and his wife Mildred purchased what was left at Chesterfield while Howard’s sister Evelyn and husband Campbell Brower purchased what was left at Cambridge City. They both continued to operate business independently.
Howard Gaar, fourth from the left, receiving the "Green Survivor City" award.
In 1942, during World War II, Howard was draft age and in a business non-essential to the war. Accordingly, he went to work at Delco Remy in a war-related job. In order to keep the business from closing, Howard’s wife Mildred kept the office open. There was one landscape crew installing plants that Howard could sell in off-hours from Delco, and two or three men working in the field. Howard gave notice at Delco the day the Japanese surrendered. Mildred continued to work in the office until she was 90.
As Chesterfield began to grow physically and throughout the community, Barry Gaar (son of Howard Gaar) continued the fourth generation to own and operate Gaar’s Nursery after graduating from Purdue in 1959. Phil Gaar, graduation from Purdue in 1961, also stepped in to help own and operate the family business.
Phil Gaar, to this day, working out in the farm
Through trials and tribulations, Gaar property still operates in the same location, but now as “Affordable Trees” . We are lucky to still have Phil Gaar on board with us, working and teaching employees. With his help we have lined out our first set of bare-root trees on the property in the summer of 2009. The legacy of Gaar’s Nursery will continue to be a topic of conversation at our farm. Can you think of a nursery as long lived as Gaar Nursery?
Black Walnut Toxicity
The Black Walnut Tree, a large and common deciduous tree, produces more than just edible nuts. The roots, buds, and nut hulls produce a chemical called “Juglone”. According to Purdue University, “Juglone has experimentally been shown to be a respiration inhibitor which deprives sensitive plants of needed energy for metabolic activity”. The toxic zone from a mature tree occurs on average in a 50-60′ radius but can be up to 80′. The following is information about trees that are sensitive and tolerant to Juglone. Note: These are based upon observations and not clinical tests.
Tolerant:
- Japanese Maples
- Southern Catalpa
- Eastern Redbud
- Canadian Hemlock
- Arborvitae
- Sycamore
- Elm
- Red Cedar
- Hawthorn
- Oak
Sensitive:
- White Birch
- Ornamental Cherries
- Red Chokecherry
- Crabapples
- Silver Maple
- Pear
- White Pine
- Norway Spruce
- Apple Tree
For more information on specific varieties that are tolerant/intolerant to Juglone please refer to our sources.
According to the University of Minnesota, “There is no chemical control available to stop the potentially toxic effect of black walnut roots. The only practical control is physical separation. Cutting down and removing the tree is of limited help, unless all roots are removed from the soil. As indicated, black walnut leaves probably give off little juglone. But to be on the safe side, it is best to rake up the leaves, and to avoid using the bark or chips as a mulch.”
Sources: http://www.ces.purdue.edu/extmedia/HO/HO-193.pdf, http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1148.html, http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/h407blkwal-tox.html
Maple Gall Mites
A common concern with maple owners is Maple Gall Mites, tiny little red or green balls on their maple leaves. According to the University of Wisconsin, “Maple leaves frequently develop growths or swellings known as “galls”. These are caused by microscopic mites. The form and color of the gall indicates which species of mite is the culprit. If a tree is heavily infested, its foliage becomes distorted and drops prematurely. But usually the injury is only temporary, and the tree’s vigor does not deteriorate significantly.” Maple Galls can be noticed in early May as a green color, eventually turning into a pinkish red and finally into a black.
Red Maple Gall Mites on Maple
What do the mites do?: The adult mites become active very early in spring, just as buds begin to open. As they feed on the developing leaf tissue, growth regulating chemicals produced by the mites interact with plant hormones causing an abnormal stimulation of cell growth. This abnormal growth forms the galls that gradually enclose the mites. Each mite species produces slightly different substances, resulting in the different characteristic gall shapes. The mites get nutrients from the inner gall tissue and are protected from natural enemies (University of Wisconsin).
How many types of gall are there?: There are three types of gall; maple bladder, maple spindle, and erineum gall mites.
How can I control Maple Gall?: Although control is not required, and damage done by maple galls is neither significant and/or long lasting… the following are options a tree owner can take (Ohio State University)
Strategy 1: Use Resistant Maples – Norway maples and some of the named cultivars of maples with outstanding red or yellow leaf color appear to be resistant to these gall mites and midges. Talk to the plant supplier to see if the tree cultivar has a history of leaf gall problems or not.
Strategy 2: Dormant Oils – Use of dormant oils on maples is discouraged because leaf and twig damage can result unless the tree is truly dormant. However, some reports of success have been made where the trunk has been drenched with dormant oil to kill the overwintering stages of the bladder gall and spindle gall mites.
Strategy 3: Standard Insecticide/Miticide Sprays – Several insecticides and miticides are registered for control of gall mites (eriophyid mites) and gall midges. If these products are to be used, they have to be applied precisely when the new leaf buds are opening. Most sprays have little, if any, effect because the window of opportunity is very short. Once the gall has formed, it is too late to make an application.
Strategy 4: Systemic Insecticides/Miticides – Several systemic pesticides (sprayed, soil injected or trunk injected) have been recommended as useful in controlling these gall forming pests. However little evidence of success has been found in the current literature. Once the gall has formed, it is too late to make an application.
Resources and Additional Reading: http://learningstore.uwex.edu/pdf/A2691.pdf, http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2004.html, http://www.ca.uky.edu/entomology/entfacts/ef404.asp, http://www.hort.wisc.edu/mastergardener/Features/insects/maplegallmite/maplegallmite.pdf, http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/O&T/trees/note04/note04.html