News Filed Under "Tree Facts"
Don’t Let Height Fool You!
When looking into purchasing a tree, one important factor to consider is maturity. We all want that fully grown shade tree in our yard tomorrow, better yet, today! Age is a crucial factor when deciding to purchase and install a tree. A ten-year-old tree is always preferred to a five-year-old tree.
So how do we tell how old a tree is? One common misconception is to determine age solely by height. This would be like determining a human’s age just by height. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t.
There is a national standard for measuring nursery stock, and I will explain.
You will be reading about two popular ways to measure trees: height and caliper. A tree’s caliper is the diameter measured in inches, while the height is measured in feet.
Below are stages of a tree’s life and the standard form of measurement:
Liners
All trees start out as liners, and are grown on until they are marketable. More recently, online websites have started to sell bundles of liners to consumers. Because of how small these trees are, they are measured by height.
Container Trees
Container trees are the middle ground between growing a tree and selling a tree. They are easy for the customer who wants to pick out a tree, take it home, and plant it on their own. Container trees are popularly sold at box stores and nurseries. They range in height, but typically are sold between 1-3” caliper, depending on tree variety.
Balled & Burlapped (B&B) Trees
B&B trees tend to be the most mature. Once a tree is a B&B tree, it is only measured by caliper. These trees are usually handled by tree professionals, and have a large range in height depending on tree variety.
Exceptions: this blog is meant to introduce the consumer to how nursery stock is measured. There are a few exceptions for evergreen and flowering trees. If you’re interested in learning more, check out the American Standard for Nursery Stock: http://www.jerseygrown.nj.gov/jgstandards.pdf
Planting Trees in Fall
Right now we are in the ideal time to plant shade, flowering, and evergreen trees. It is true that B&B (Balled & Burlapped) trees can be planted all year round, however, fall has always been a prominent planting season and we will explain why.
Fall and dormancy:
- Trees enter dormancy (hibernation) during the winter months. Deciduous trees prepare for this by shedding their leaves.
- During dormancy, no growth occurs in the upper branches and attention is given to growing a stronger root system. This stronger root system will better support foliage growth in the spring. (Buckeye Gardening)
- Purdue notes the ‘best time’ to plant trees is mid August to the beginning of October (aka, now!)
Evergreen Needles Not Always Green
If you happen to notice yellowing needles on your evergreens, do not fret!
Is the yellowing on the inside?
Inside yellowing on evergreens is completely natural and is part of their growth life cycle. Although the evergreen holds its needles all year long, some old needles drop off to make room for new growth. According to Iowa State Extension, “Environmental stresses, such as drought and hot temperatures, may cause greater-than-normal loss of needles”. Yellowing from the top to the bottom on the inside of the evergreen is often taken as a “disease”, but relax as it is completely natural and healthy. University of Illinois Extension also adds, “Weather conditions, age of the plant and genetics all contribute to when needles drop.”
Is the evergreen yellowing at the tips?
If the evergreen is yellowing at the tips there may be more serious issues. University of Illinois Extension states, “If new growth is weak or turning brown, injury or disease may be involved”. If you have evergreens make sure to examine the placement of yellowing. Inside is okay, new growth yellowing is not!
Regardless, if there is needle drop, do not feel the need to rake! The needles serve as a mulch/weed barrier.
Refer to our sources for additional reading on the topic!
Black Walnut Toxicity
The Black Walnut Tree, a large and common deciduous tree, produces more than just edible nuts. The roots, buds, and nut hulls produce a chemical called “Juglone”. According to Purdue University, “Juglone has experimentally been shown to be a respiration inhibitor which deprives sensitive plants of needed energy for metabolic activity”. The toxic zone from a mature tree occurs on average in a 50-60′ radius but can be up to 80′. The following is information about trees that are sensitive and tolerant to Juglone. Note: These are based upon observations and not clinical tests.
Tolerant:
- Japanese Maples
- Southern Catalpa
- Eastern Redbud
- Canadian Hemlock
- Arborvitae
- Sycamore
- Elm
- Red Cedar
- Hawthorn
- Oak
Sensitive:
- White Birch
- Ornamental Cherries
- Red Chokecherry
- Crabapples
- Silver Maple
- Pear
- White Pine
- Norway Spruce
- Apple Tree
For more information on specific varieties that are tolerant/intolerant to Juglone please refer to our sources.
According to the University of Minnesota, “There is no chemical control available to stop the potentially toxic effect of black walnut roots. The only practical control is physical separation. Cutting down and removing the tree is of limited help, unless all roots are removed from the soil. As indicated, black walnut leaves probably give off little juglone. But to be on the safe side, it is best to rake up the leaves, and to avoid using the bark or chips as a mulch.”
Sources: http://www.ces.purdue.edu/extmedia/HO/HO-193.pdf, http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1148.html, http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/h407blkwal-tox.html
Maple Gall Mites
A common concern with maple owners is Maple Gall Mites, tiny little red or green balls on their maple leaves. According to the University of Wisconsin, “Maple leaves frequently develop growths or swellings known as “galls”. These are caused by microscopic mites. The form and color of the gall indicates which species of mite is the culprit. If a tree is heavily infested, its foliage becomes distorted and drops prematurely. But usually the injury is only temporary, and the tree’s vigor does not deteriorate significantly.” Maple Galls can be noticed in early May as a green color, eventually turning into a pinkish red and finally into a black.
Red Maple Gall Mites on Maple
What do the mites do?: The adult mites become active very early in spring, just as buds begin to open. As they feed on the developing leaf tissue, growth regulating chemicals produced by the mites interact with plant hormones causing an abnormal stimulation of cell growth. This abnormal growth forms the galls that gradually enclose the mites. Each mite species produces slightly different substances, resulting in the different characteristic gall shapes. The mites get nutrients from the inner gall tissue and are protected from natural enemies (University of Wisconsin).
How many types of gall are there?: There are three types of gall; maple bladder, maple spindle, and erineum gall mites.
How can I control Maple Gall?: Although control is not required, and damage done by maple galls is neither significant and/or long lasting… the following are options a tree owner can take (Ohio State University)
Strategy 1: Use Resistant Maples – Norway maples and some of the named cultivars of maples with outstanding red or yellow leaf color appear to be resistant to these gall mites and midges. Talk to the plant supplier to see if the tree cultivar has a history of leaf gall problems or not.
Strategy 2: Dormant Oils – Use of dormant oils on maples is discouraged because leaf and twig damage can result unless the tree is truly dormant. However, some reports of success have been made where the trunk has been drenched with dormant oil to kill the overwintering stages of the bladder gall and spindle gall mites.
Strategy 3: Standard Insecticide/Miticide Sprays – Several insecticides and miticides are registered for control of gall mites (eriophyid mites) and gall midges. If these products are to be used, they have to be applied precisely when the new leaf buds are opening. Most sprays have little, if any, effect because the window of opportunity is very short. Once the gall has formed, it is too late to make an application.
Strategy 4: Systemic Insecticides/Miticides – Several systemic pesticides (sprayed, soil injected or trunk injected) have been recommended as useful in controlling these gall forming pests. However little evidence of success has been found in the current literature. Once the gall has formed, it is too late to make an application.
Resources and Additional Reading: http://learningstore.uwex.edu/pdf/A2691.pdf, http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2004.html, http://www.ca.uky.edu/entomology/entfacts/ef404.asp, http://www.hort.wisc.edu/mastergardener/Features/insects/maplegallmite/maplegallmite.pdf, http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/O&T/trees/note04/note04.html
Breaking Down Misconceptions!
Hope everyone had an amazing Memorial Day! The weather is starting to heat up, so make sure you water water water! I brainstormed up some common misconceptions within the horticulture industry that I would love to clear up! Feel free to comment, e-mail us, or follow our other interactive websites (www.twitter.com/affordabletrees) or find us on facebook (search: Affordable Trees).
1. Is it too late to plant a tree?
According to Ohio Buckeye Extension, “the biggest misconception in landscaping is people think they can’t plant in the summer, they only can plant in the spring or fall. Actually, the trees can only be dug in the spring before they leave out or after the fall if we have had one or two frosts”. You can plant a tree at anytime!
2. Should my tree be planted with the burlap sack and steel cage still on it?
Affordable Trees purchased biodegradable material, so leaving on the material is not harmful and actually proves to be beneficial. Iowa State University says, “If the root ball is exceptionally sturdy, all burlap, sisal and synthetic twine, and the wire basket can be removed before backfilling begins, however, removing these materials at this stage may result in the loss of root ball integrity and cause root damage.” The burlap and cage promote sturdy root growth and help keep the tree stable in the ground.
http://www.hort.iastate.edu/turfgrass/pubs/turfrpt/1997/ornstudy/Treplant.pdf
3. Should I mulch or add topsoil back on top of the tree?
One very common question is why mulch is so vital to the survival of your newly installed tree? According to North Carolina State, “Mulching trees and shrubs is a good method to reduce landscape maintenance and keep plants healthy. Mulch helps conserve moisture — 10 to 25 percent reduction in soil moisture loss from evaporation. Mulches help keep the soil well aerated by reducing soil compaction that results when raindrops hit the soil. They also reduce water runoff and soil erosion. Mulches prevent soil and possible fungi from splashing on the foliage —- thus reducing the likelihood of soil-borne diseases. They help maintain a more uniform soil temperature (warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer) and promote the growth of soil microorganisms and earth worms.” I also personally think mulching around the tree gives it a nicer look and helps alleviate the pain of mowing beneath the tree. On the flip side, adding topsoil can “can reduce the movement of oxygen to tree roots, causing them to die”, according to Iowa State University.
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/trees-new/text/muching.html
http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Publications/SUL2.pdf
4. Raising the ball above grade
According to Iowa State, “the depth of the planting hole should be approximately two-thirds of the height of the root ball. When placed in the hole, the top one-third of the soil ball should be above the surrounding soil”. With Indiana’s clay soil, it is important to promote the drainage of water. The a major killer of trees is kindness. Placing trees above grade will help prevent over watering.
http://www.ces.purdue.edu/extmedia/fnr/fnr-faq-18-w.pdf
5. I have an “irrigation” system, isn’t that enough?
I often find it the case that tree owners with irrigation systems tend to have watering issues. Irrigation systems are designed for turf, shrubs, and shallow-rooted plants, all of which have different requirements than a newly installed tree. If an irrigation system is in place, make sure you are still checking soil conditions and adding or prolonging watering sessions. If watering is an issue, I recommend investing in a tree gator. (http://www.treegator.com/)
6. Should I amend the soil?
“Contrary to popular belief, soil removed from the planting hole is the most appropriate backfill material. Soil amendments like peat moss, ground bark, and composted manures mixed with the native oil and used as backfill have not proven beneficial to tree establishment. In fact, studies have shown tree root systems in amended soils remain confined to the amended soil in the planting hole, while trees planted without the “benefit” of soil amendments developed roots far beyond the original planting hole. And on poorly-drained sites, soil amendments can collect too much water. Because amended soil has greater pore space than surrounding clay soil, water will move into it preferentially.”
http://www.hort.iastate.edu/turfgrass/pubs/turfrpt/1997/ornstudy/Treplant.pdf
New Tree Care
The most important factor in caring for your newly planted tree(s) is watering. All trees need watering especially newly planted ones that have not yet had a chance to develop the root structures to gather water. Trees will benefit more from infrequent deep watering as opposed to frequent light watering. It is important to note that sprinkler systems are not sufficient for watering trees, they are only meant for lawns. Another very important note is that watering too frequently or watering with too much water is as injurious as under-watering.
So, how do you water your tree(s)? The first thing to do is check how moist the soil is around the root ball. Pull away some mulch and dig down into the soil 4-6″ alongside the root ball. If the soil is wet or moist, do not water. If the soil feels cool to the touch but not yet dry, it’s time to water. If you wait until the soil is dry and crumbly, the soil will have a hard time absorbing the water you apply and your tree(s) might have already started to become stressed. By following this method, your tree(s) might stay moist for up to 2 weeks. Sandy or well drained soils, periods of warm weather, or other factors might increase the need to water. By checking your soil frequently in the beginning, you will be able to determine the watering schedule that works best for your tree(s). In winter months, the natural rainfall should be sufficient for even newly installed trees.
Visit our ‘Tree Care’ page on our website at www.affordabletrees.com/treecare for photos and step-by-step instructions.
Happy watering!