See that pest up there? Look familiar? Maybe even if he doesn’t… I am sure he sounds familiar! The Emerald Ash Borer has been devastating Ash trees for the last 10 years. (Infected areas: Michigan, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kentucky, Maryland, Minnesota, Missouri, New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Tennessee, Virginia, West Virginia, Wisconsin, Ontario and Quebec). If you live in one of these areas and have an Ash tree, you may want to keep reading!

The Lifecycle:

1. In mid-May to mid-August Adults lay eggs on ash bark
2. During this time (May to August) these eggs hatch into larvae and begin tunneling into the tree
3. From August to October, these larvae continue feeding under the bark
4. From May to June the adults then merge and begin to lay eggs again

Signs & Symptoms: 

Whenever anything is wrong with your tree, you will see the following signs:

• Canopy Dieback
• Sprouts growing from the roots/bottom of the tree

Symptoms most likely due to the Emerald Ash Borer:

• Bark Splitting
• Serpentine Galleries and D-shaped Exit Holes

• Increased Woodpecker Damage

Prevention:

• There are insecticides you can use for your tree to prevent and control emerald ash borer.
• Imicide by Mauget is one of them, link is here
• Another insecticide is TreeAzin, explained here

After-Math:

• If your tree is infested, most townships are taking the following actions:
• Allow nature to take its course, removing trees only if they become hazardous
• Remove or replace trees with a different species of trees
• Attempt to chemically treat the trees

For further information, visit http://www.emeraldashborer.info

So how do we tell how old a tree is? One common misconception is to determine age solely by height. This would be like determining a human’s age just by height. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t.

There is a national standard for measuring nursery stock, and I will explain.

You will be reading about two popular ways to measure trees: height and caliper.  A tree’s caliper is the diameter measured in inches, while the height is measured in feet.

Below are stages of a tree’s life and the standard form of measurement:

Liners

 All trees start out as liners, and are grown on until they are marketable. More recently, online websites have started to sell bundles of liners to consumers. Because of how small these trees are, they are measured by height.

Container Trees

Container trees are the middle ground between growing a tree and selling a tree. They are easy for the customer who wants to pick out a tree, take it home, and plant it on their own. Container trees are popularly sold at box stores and nurseries. They range in height, but typically are sold between 1-3” caliper, depending on tree variety.

Balled & Burlapped (B&B) Trees

B&B trees tend to be the most mature. Once a tree is a B&B tree, it is only measured by caliper. These trees are usually handled by tree professionals, and have a large range in height depending on tree variety.

Exceptions: this blog is meant to introduce the consumer to how nursery stock is measured. There are a few exceptions for evergreen and flowering trees.  If you’re interested in learning more, check out the American Standard for Nursery Stock: http://www.jerseygrown.nj.gov/jgstandards.pdf

Fall and dormancy: 

• Trees enter dormancy (hibernation) during the winter months. Deciduous trees prepare for this by shedding their leaves.
• During dormancy, no growth occurs in the upper branches and attention is given to growing a stronger root system. This stronger root system will better support foliage growth in the spring. (Buckeye Gardening)
• Purdue notes the ‘best time’ to plant trees is mid August to the beginning of October (aka, now!)

We have felt these economic conditions, over the past two years, in a big way. This has created a few difficult decisions to be made in order to maintain our strong quality, prices, and services to you, our valued customer. Over the past two years we have had two members leave the company, not out of want, but out of need to continue to grow their financial security for their own future. We have lost some outstanding employees because we could not continue to afford to pay them what they were worth. Our long term plan was based on volume and duplication. With a decrease in disposable income and loss of jobs and homes our volume is down over 50%. Taking all of these variables into consideration, we have decided not to purchase the Sheridan land and to put all of our emphasis into the old Garr Nursery that was purchased in 2007. With over 120 acres of land and thousands of trees and evergreens growing, this facility provides an ease of access for our Indiana based customers and a wonderful structure in place. We moved our headquarters and staff there in 2009. This farm is located on the south east corner of Anderson, Indiana, just two miles west of I-69. Given that our installation crews have been doing such an excellent job and more and more customers are being serviced over the phone and through the internet, Anderson has become our ideal headquarters. This decision was not taken lightly; however, Affordable Trees will no longer be operating at the Sheridan facility. Our main concentration is to continue to reduce debt, grow quality trees, and continue to embrace our customer with great service and great prices. I would like to thank you for your past and future business with us.

Affordable Trees

Trees need 16 elements to grow and survive. These elements come from the air, water, and the soil. Air and water provide Carbon (C), Hydrogen (H), and Oxygen (O). The other 13 elements come from within the soil and can be broken down into macro and micro nutrients. As the picture displays:

Micro-Nutrients: Boron (B), Copper (Cu), Iron (Fe), Chloride (Cl), Manganese (Mn), Molybdenum (Mo), and Zinc (Zn).  These nutrients are only needed in small quantities (hence the name “Micro”)

Macro-Nutrients: Macro-nutrients can be broken down into primary and secondary nutrients.

• Secondary Nutrients: There is usually enough of Calcium (Ca), Magnesium (Mg), and Sulfer (S) within the soil. We run into problems when it comes to Primary Nutrients.
• Primary Nutrients: Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) are the three primary nutrients. Basic suburban homes most often lack one or all of these nutrients.

• Nitrogen: Responsible for the green pigment essential for photosynthesis. It also aids in tree growth.
• Phosphorus: Also an essential part of photosynthesis, aids in growth, and encourages root growth.
• Potassium: Helps reduce disease and aids in photosynthesis

How do you know if your soil is deficient?

Soil tests will provide accurate answers, however it is common to use basic granular fertilizer’s for a “just-in-case” basis

When do I fertilize?

Good times to fertilizer include fall (after the leaves have fallen off) and early spring (right before the buds start breaking and the tree begins to leaf out). These extra nutrients in fertilizer will help top growth of the tree and the overall look. Newly transplanted trees should not be fertilized for at least 6-8 weeks.

How do I take care of newly installed trees?

Root Grow/Stimulator is great for newly installed trees. This will help ease any transplant shock as well as promote root growth. Root growth is important to establish the tree to live a long and healthy life. After root growth comes top growth, so the tree must be established before you see any top growth!

What else can I do to take care of my trees?

Aside from building proper watering techniques, fertilizing, and root growth, a treatment we highly recommend is systemic injections. Tree injections are similar to human IV’s. The liquid can be injected directly into the tree’s vascular system to help boost a tree’s “immune system”. More information about systemic injections can be found at www.mauget.com

]]> http://www.affordabletrees.com/blog/2010/05/26/if-you-take-care-of-your-lawn-why-not-your-trees/feed/ 1 http://www.affordabletrees.com/blog/2010/01/05/landscaping-ideas-101/ http://www.affordabletrees.com/blog/2010/01/05/landscaping-ideas-101/#comments Tue, 05 Jan 2010 05:03:09 +0000 admin http://www.affordabletrees.com/blog/?p=118 One of the biggest home improvement options is investing in outdoor landscaping (aka “Tree-scaping” for those that want  a larger impact). January and February happen to be great months to consider improving the look and value of your home. While some of us like to pull out our blueprints, research all types of flowers bushes and trees, and call all over the state to get pricing ideas… most of us have a difficult time generating the appropriate landscaping ideas!

This is why I have put together a little Landscaping 101 on easy yard improvements that add that “wow” factor. Below are suggestions, tips, and real life examples of “tree-scapes”.

First and foremost, the top 3 things to consider:

1. Amount of space to work with:  Always consider the amount of space by doing a little research on the mature width and height of a tree

2. Color: Always consider the spring and fall color that trees provide

3.  Seasons: Not all trees hold their leaves year long. Flower and shade trees drop their leaves while evergreens hold their vibrant needles throughout the winter months. Consider your yard when winter hits, will it be naked?

Below are a few landscaping ideas, of real “tree-scapes” by Affordable Trees

“The Nosy Neighbor”

So for some of you that live in a cute residential neighborhood, you have come to realize your neighbors are not everything you would hope them to be! This beautiful (6-7′) Evergreen triangle does wonders for a smaller yard that is in dire need for privacy. Eventually there will be full coverage up and down, from side to side. This layout is also great for noise barriers and wind blocks.  Approximate Cost: $800-$1,000

“The Nosy Neighbor II”

This Tree-Scape is ideal in a neighborhood setting, but also for those with a larger yard. In this specific case the evergreens are being used for privacy and also for shade. Showing are 8 Evergreens that vary in size from approximately 10-12′.  Placing the Evergreens in a line, but staggering them a bit improves the overall aesthetic appeal of the yard. It also helps give your children boundaries when they are playing outside.  Approximate Cost: $2,000 – $3,500

“Beauty & the Birch”

One of my favorite trees is the River Birch. I love the shape, the leaves, the color, and the peeling bark.  A river birch can be placed anywhere, but I love it next to a house. Good spacing can be 8-10′ from the side of your home. The River Birch will naturally grow towards the light and won’t scrape the side of your home.  River Birch can be used to add some shade to that window that always gets full sun. This can really help in energy savings. River birch are often placed in wet spots, because they love water! Approximate Cost: $300 – $500

“No Room, but I love Trees”

If you are in need of quick and inexpensive coverage, an addition to your beautiful landscape, or a way to line your property, Arborvitaes are the way to go.  These evergreens hold their needles year round, which show for a beautiful winter holiday, and are sold in many different varieties. Most peak at about 10-15′ which is ideal for privacy and small landscape trees.  They are also a great economy size. This picture shows 10 Arborvitae at about 7′. Approximate Cost: $1,200 – $1,400

“Show Me the Shade”

One of the most practical shade trees to purchase is a Maple. Some great varieties include Red Sunset Maple, October Glory Maple, Emerald Queen Maple, and Norway Maple. These trees are ideal because they grow fast and provide a great amount of shade. Maples also work great in pairs because they turn all different shades in the fall ranging from yellows to oranges to reds. I believe every yard should have at least one maple. They work great in the front, side, and back yard. The picture shows 3 Red Sunset Maples approximately 16-18′. Approximate Cost: $1,000 -$1,300

These are just a few simple landscaping ideas that apply both shade and evergreen trees to your yard. More ideas will be coming in Landscaping Ideas 201, so keep an eye out! If you have any suggestions or questions do not hesitate to e-mail us at info@affordabletrees.com and I will not hesitate to add it to our next blog.  You may also send in a picture of your yard for personal suggestions if you wish.

For more ideas on pricing you can visit our pricing page here.

Thanks for reading!

Why do I need to water in the fall?

Although the trees are beginning to go dormant, it is important to give them a nice and long last drink of water before the ground freezes. When the ground is frozen and snow is piled inches high, the trees cannot draw water from the ground. This puts the trees in danger for “winter burn” later down the road. According to David Beaulieu, writer for landscaping.about.com, ”Properly watering the plants in fall, then, can be an effective means of minimizing injury to trees and shrubs during the winter”. David also suggests occasionally watering in late autumn/winter.

You keep saying “water your trees until they are dormant”, well how do I know when my tree goes dormant?

Once the leaves begin shedding, the tree is entering dormancy.  Trees should be properly watered  once a week, until the ground is frozen.

Now what? The tree is dormant, do I need to water any longer in the winter?… how do I know when to start watering again?

When and if temperatures rise above freezing, it would be a good idea to get outside and give your trees a good soak. Other than that, you can expect to begin watering again in the early spring when temperatures are consistently warming up.  The trees will begin to ”awake” from dormancy when you notice the buds beginning to unfirl. (the same way you see a Rose unfirl)

Winter Burn

Winter Burn on White Pine

The above picture, taken from an article by Purdue University, is a white pine suffering from winter burn. Purdue Horticulture states, ”Over the course of a day, a large tree can lose hundreds of gallons of water. When plants are unable to obtain the water they need (due to drought or frozen soil), the water lost through transpiration cannot be replenished, resulting in dehydration, foliar damage, and even death.” So remember to water throughout the fall and even into the winter for a healthy tree!

Source: http://www.ppdl.purdue.edu/PPDL/weeklypics/6-2-08.html

Is the yellowing on the inside?

Inside yellowing on evergreens is completely natural and is part of their growth life cycle. Although the evergreen holds its needles all year long, some old needles drop off to make room for new growth. According to Iowa State Extension, “Environmental stresses, such as drought and hot temperatures, may cause greater-than-normal loss of needles”. Yellowing from the top to the bottom on the inside of the evergreen is often taken as a “disease”, but relax as it is completely natural and healthy. University of Illinois Extension also adds, “Weather conditions, age of the plant and genetics all contribute to when needles drop.”

Is the evergreen yellowing at the tips?

If the evergreen is yellowing at the tips there may be more serious issues. University of Illinois Extension states, “If new growth is weak or turning brown, injury or disease may be involved”.  If you have evergreens make sure to examine the placement of yellowing. Inside is okay, new growth yellowing is not!

Regardless, if there is needle drop, do not feel the need to rake! The needles serve as a mulch/weed barrier.

Refer to our sources for additional reading on the topic!

The Black Walnut Tree, a large and common deciduous tree, produces more than just edible nuts. The roots, buds, and nut hulls produce a chemical called “Juglone”. According to Purdue University, “Juglone has experimentally been shown to be a respiration inhibitor which deprives sensitive plants of needed energy for metabolic activity”. The toxic zone from a mature tree occurs on average in a 50-60′ radius but can be up to 80′. The following is information about trees that are sensitive and tolerant to Juglone. Note: These are based upon observations and not clinical tests.

Tolerant:

• Japanese Maples
• Southern Catalpa
• Eastern Redbud
• Canadian Hemlock
• Arborvitae
• Sycamore
• Elm
• Red Cedar
• Hawthorn
• Oak

Sensitive:

• White Birch
• Ornamental Cherries
• Red Chokecherry
• Crabapples
• Silver Maple
• Pear
• White Pine
• Norway Spruce
• Apple Tree

For more information on specific varieties that are tolerant/intolerant to Juglone please refer to our sources.

According to the University of Minnesota, “There is no chemical control available to stop the potentially toxic effect of black walnut roots. The only practical control is physical separation. Cutting down and removing the tree is of limited help, unless all roots are removed from the soil. As indicated, black walnut leaves probably give off little juglone. But to be on the safe side, it is best to rake up the leaves, and to avoid using the bark or chips as a mulch.”

Sources: http://www.ces.purdue.edu/extmedia/HO/HO-193.pdf, http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1148.html, http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/h407blkwal-tox.html