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Maple Gall Mites
A common concern with maple owners is Maple Gall Mites, tiny little red or green balls on their maple leaves. According to the University of Wisconsin, “Maple leaves frequently develop growths or swellings known as “galls”. These are caused by microscopic mites. The form and color of the gall indicates which species of mite is the culprit. If a tree is heavily infested, its foliage becomes distorted and drops prematurely. But usually the injury is only temporary, and the tree’s vigor does not deteriorate significantly.” Maple Galls can be noticed in early May as a green color, eventually turning into a pinkish red and finally into a black.
Red Maple Gall Mites on Maple
What do the mites do?: The adult mites become active very early in spring, just as buds begin to open. As they feed on the developing leaf tissue, growth regulating chemicals produced by the mites interact with plant hormones causing an abnormal stimulation of cell growth. This abnormal growth forms the galls that gradually enclose the mites. Each mite species produces slightly different substances, resulting in the different characteristic gall shapes. The mites get nutrients from the inner gall tissue and are protected from natural enemies (University of Wisconsin).
How many types of gall are there?: There are three types of gall; maple bladder, maple spindle, and erineum gall mites.
How can I control Maple Gall?: Although control is not required, and damage done by maple galls is neither significant and/or long lasting… the following are options a tree owner can take (Ohio State University)
Strategy 1: Use Resistant Maples – Norway maples and some of the named cultivars of maples with outstanding red or yellow leaf color appear to be resistant to these gall mites and midges. Talk to the plant supplier to see if the tree cultivar has a history of leaf gall problems or not.
Strategy 2: Dormant Oils – Use of dormant oils on maples is discouraged because leaf and twig damage can result unless the tree is truly dormant. However, some reports of success have been made where the trunk has been drenched with dormant oil to kill the overwintering stages of the bladder gall and spindle gall mites.
Strategy 3: Standard Insecticide/Miticide Sprays – Several insecticides and miticides are registered for control of gall mites (eriophyid mites) and gall midges. If these products are to be used, they have to be applied precisely when the new leaf buds are opening. Most sprays have little, if any, effect because the window of opportunity is very short. Once the gall has formed, it is too late to make an application.
Strategy 4: Systemic Insecticides/Miticides – Several systemic pesticides (sprayed, soil injected or trunk injected) have been recommended as useful in controlling these gall forming pests. However little evidence of success has been found in the current literature. Once the gall has formed, it is too late to make an application.
Resources and Additional Reading: http://learningstore.uwex.edu/pdf/A2691.pdf, http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2004.html, http://www.ca.uky.edu/entomology/entfacts/ef404.asp, http://www.hort.wisc.edu/mastergardener/Features/insects/maplegallmite/maplegallmite.pdf, http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/O&T/trees/note04/note04.html
How to’s and When to’s on Pruning, Fertilizing, and Bagworm
Good day everyone! I have collected some valuable information from credible universities of the how to’s and when to’s of tree care. Any questions or suggestions? Feel free to e-mail us at info@affordabletrees.com … Enjoy!
Everything you need to know about Fertilizing:
- When can I Fertilize? : October through March are the best times to fertilize. Soil moisture and temperature conditions are best during these periods, and this will ensure that the fertilizer will be in place at the beginning of the growing season when maximum benefit will be realized. Root growth is best during this time also.
- Do I need to fertilize? : Fertilization can be beneficial if symptoms of a nutrient-deficient tree include a slow rate and low amount of annual growth on twigs and trunk, smaller than normal foliage, off-color foliage, increased amounts of dead branches, tip die-back in branches, and increased rates of disease and insect problems. Trees that possess these symptoms generally would respond to a fertilization treatment
- Be Aware: Too frequent or too heavy fertilization may cause nutrients to build up to toxic levels. This may be avoided by periodic soil testing which will show abnormally high or low nutrient levels.
- Recommended fertilization methods: www.affordabletrees.com/treecare or a granular fertilizer called 12-12-12
Sources: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-618.html
Everything you need to know about pruning:
- Why should I prune?: Reasons for pruning can be broken down into 4 categories: training , maintaining, improving the quality of your tree, and controlling growth.
- When should I prune?: Light pruning can be done any time of the year to remove die back. Extensive pruning should be done in late winter to early spring. This is the best time of the year to prune because wound closure is more rapid (before new shoots emerge), there are few insects/disease spores to infest pruning cuts, and deciduous trees have dropped their leaves so it’s easier to see what your pruning!
- How to Prune: Correct pruning means making a clean, angled cut at the point where a branch attaches, either to another branch or to the trunk of the tree. This is a “thinning” cut. Do not cut into the branch bark ridge or the collar — that darkened, rough bark tissue above and below the branch’s point of attachment. Below is an instructional video on how to properly prune.
Sources: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/1730.html, http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/columngw/grprune.html
Everything you need to know about spraying bagworms:
- About bagworms: Bagworms have a very wide host range but are usually associated with arborvitae or juniper. A single bagworm does relatively little harm as it feeds on leaves. Excessive defoliation may kill conifers within one or two seasons. They hatch in May and June. Upon reaching a suitable host, the worm begins to spin its bag and as it grows, it incorporates some of the host plant foliage into the bag for camouflage.
Picture of an Adult Bagworm
Spraying for bagworms:
- Option 1-Cultural Control-Mechanical Hand Picking If the bags are few in number and easily reached they may be picked off the plant and squashed. This can be done easily in the late fall when deciduous foliage has been dropped or the bits of plant material on the bags turn brown and can be easily located on evergreens. Be sure to cut the attachment silk band so that the branch will not be girdled in the future.
- Option 2-Biological Control-Use the Bacterial Spray Bt The bacterium, Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), is effective against bagworms if it is used against young larvae. Applications should be made at the end of June after all the eggs have hatched and the larvae are through ballooning.
- Option 3-Chemical Control-Insecticide Sprays Stomach insecticides are very useful for control of bagworms. Remember that the plant foliage is to be thoroughly covered because the larvae are protected from contact by being in the silk bag. Again, early sprays in spring against young larvae are more effective than later applications
- Option 4- Preventative Control-Dormant Oil: In the winter spray with a dormant oil to smother overwintering insect eggs without damaging plants.
Sources: http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2149.html, http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/O&T/trees/ort081e/ort081e.htm
Tree Care and Common Misconceptions!
Hope everyone had an amazing Memorial Day! The weather is starting to heat up, so make sure you water water water! I brainstormed up some common tree care misconceptions within the horticulture industry that I would love to clear up! Feel free to comment, e-mail us, or follow our other interactive websites (www.twitter.com/affordabletrees) or find us on facebook (search: Affordable Trees).
1. Is it too late to plant a tree?
According to Ohio Buckeye Extension, “the biggest misconception in landscaping is people think they can’t plant in the summer, they only can plant in the spring or fall. Actually, the trees can only be dug in the spring before they leave out or after the fall if we have had one or two frosts”. You can plant a tree at anytime!
2. Should my tree be planted with the burlap sack and steel cage still on it?
Affordable Trees purchased biodegradable material, so leaving on the material is not harmful and actually proves to be beneficial. Iowa State University says, “If the root ball is exceptionally sturdy, all burlap, sisal and synthetic twine, and the wire basket can be removed before backfilling begins, however, removing these materials at this stage may result in the loss of root ball integrity and cause root damage.” The burlap and cage promote sturdy root growth and help keep the tree stable in the ground.
http://www.hort.iastate.edu/turfgrass/pubs/turfrpt/1997/ornstudy/Treplant.pdf
3. Should I mulch or add topsoil back on top of the tree?
One very common question is why mulch is so vital to the survival of your newly installed tree? According to North Carolina State, “Mulching trees and shrubs is a good method to reduce landscape maintenance and keep plants healthy. Mulch helps conserve moisture — 10 to 25 percent reduction in soil moisture loss from evaporation. Mulches help keep the soil well aerated by reducing soil compaction that results when raindrops hit the soil. They also reduce water runoff and soil erosion. Mulches prevent soil and possible fungi from splashing on the foliage —- thus reducing the likelihood of soil-borne diseases. They help maintain a more uniform soil temperature (warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer) and promote the growth of soil microorganisms and earth worms.” I also personally think mulching around the tree gives it a nicer look and helps alleviate the pain of mowing beneath the tree. On the flip side, adding topsoil can “can reduce the movement of oxygen to tree roots, causing them to die”, according to Iowa State University.
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/trees-new/text/muching.html
http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Publications/SUL2.pdf
4. Raising the ball above grade
According to Iowa State, “the depth of the planting hole should be approximately two-thirds of the height of the root ball. When placed in the hole, the top one-third of the soil ball should be above the surrounding soil”. With Indiana’s clay soil, it is important to promote the drainage of water. The a major killer of trees is kindness. Placing trees above grade will help prevent over watering.
http://www.ces.purdue.edu/extmedia/fnr/fnr-faq-18-w.pdf
5. I have an “irrigation” system, isn’t that enough?
I often find it to be the case that tree owners with irrigation systems tend to have watering issues. Irrigation systems are designed for turf, shrubs, and shallow-rooted plants, all of which have different requirements than a newly installed tree. If an irrigation system is in place, make sure you are still checking soil conditions and adding or prolonging watering sessions. If watering is an issue, I recommend investing in a tree gator. (http://www.treegator.com/)
6. Should I amend the soil?
“Contrary to popular belief, soil removed from the planting hole is the most appropriate backfill material. Soil amendments like peat moss, ground bark, and composted manures mixed with the native oil and used as backfill have not proven beneficial to tree establishment. In fact, studies have shown tree root systems in amended soils remain confined to the amended soil in the planting hole, while trees planted without the “benefit” of soil amendments developed roots far beyond the original planting hole. And on poorly-drained sites, soil amendments can collect too much water. Because amended soil has greater pore space than surrounding clay soil, water will move into it preferentially.”
http://www.hort.iastate.edu/turfgrass/pubs/turfrpt/1997/ornstudy/Treplant.pdf
Good luck with your tree care!
New Tree Care
The most important factor in caring for your newly planted tree(s) is watering. All trees need watering especially newly planted ones that have not yet had a chance to develop the root structures to gather water. Trees will benefit more from infrequent deep watering as opposed to frequent light watering. It is important to note that sprinkler systems are not sufficient for watering trees, they are only meant for lawns. Another very important note is that watering too frequently or watering with too much water is as injurious as under-watering.
So, how do you water your tree(s)? The first thing to do is check how moist the soil is around the root ball. Pull away some mulch and dig down into the soil 4-6″ alongside the root ball. If the soil is wet or moist, do not water. If the soil feels cool to the touch but not yet dry, it’s time to water. If you wait until the soil is dry and crumbly, the soil will have a hard time absorbing the water you apply and your tree(s) might have already started to become stressed. By following this method, your tree(s) might stay moist for up to 2 weeks. Sandy or well drained soils, periods of warm weather, or other factors might increase the need to water. By checking your soil frequently in the beginning, you will be able to determine the watering schedule that works best for your tree(s). In winter months, the natural rainfall should be sufficient for even newly installed trees.
Visit our ‘Tree Care’ page on our website at www.affordabletrees.com/treecare for photos and step-by-step instructions.
Happy watering!
Hello Green World!
Welcome to the brand new Affordable Trees blog. Our goal with this blog is to further serve you, our customer, with great tips, information, and deals about the trees and plants we bring to our communities and homes. The green trend we are in is nothing new, back in 1976 during the Bicentennial I was promoting Green Survival, small steps each of us can take to protect, improve and support our lives. Affordable Trees and I are still following that same important message today. We believe trees and plants are valuable gifts from nature that improve the lives of us all.
We know that the majority of our customers never have and never really want to be too deeply exposed to landscaping and gardening. So, we created this blog to provide advice and tips that will help you enjoy the wonders of plants and trees and educate you on why you should use green growing plants.
Please check in with us from time to time or simply subscribe for important information on how to enjoy your trees and plants. Remember, being green is not something you watch, it is something you do!
…it depends on you, so plant a tree today!