Posts Tagged "Fertilizing"
If you take care of your lawn, why not your trees?
Hundreds of dollars are spent every year by homeowners ensuring their grass is green and growing. Lawn treatment companies plan multiple visits each year to spray, aerate, and seed the lawn. So, why is there so much focus on lawn maintenance but none on tree maintenance? Let’s start with a simple drawing.
Trees need 16 elements to grow and survive. These elements come from the air, water, and the soil. Air and water provide Carbon (C), Hydrogen (H), and Oxygen (O). The other 13 elements come from within the soil and can be broken down into macro and micro nutrients. As the picture displays:
Micro-Nutrients: Boron (B), Copper (Cu), Iron (Fe), Chloride (Cl), Manganese (Mn), Molybdenum (Mo), and Zinc (Zn). These nutrients are only needed in small quantities (hence the name “Micro”)
Macro-Nutrients: Macro-nutrients can be broken down into primary and secondary nutrients.
- Secondary Nutrients: There is usually enough of Calcium (Ca), Magnesium (Mg), and Sulfer (S) within the soil. We run into problems when it comes to Primary Nutrients.
- Primary Nutrients: Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) are the three primary nutrients. Basic suburban homes most often lack one or all of these nutrients.
- Nitrogen: Responsible for the green pigment essential for photosynthesis. It also aids in tree growth.
- Phosphorus: Also an essential part of photosynthesis, aids in growth, and encourages root growth.
- Potassium: Helps reduce disease and aids in photosynthesis
How do you know if your soil is deficient?
Soil tests will provide accurate answers, however it is common to use basic granular fertilizer’s for a “just-in-case” basis
When do I fertilize?
Good times to fertilizer include fall (after the leaves have fallen off) and early spring (right before the buds start breaking and the tree begins to leaf out). These extra nutrients in fertilizer will help top growth of the tree and the overall look. Newly transplanted trees should not be fertilized for at least 6-8 weeks.
How do I take care of newly installed trees?
Root Grow/Stimulator is great for newly installed trees. This will help ease any transplant shock as well as promote root growth. Root growth is important to establish the tree to live a long and healthy life. After root growth comes top growth, so the tree must be established before you see any top growth!
What else can I do to take care of my trees?
Aside from building proper watering techniques, fertilizing, and root growth, a treatment we highly recommend is systemic injections. Tree injections are similar to human IV’s. The liquid can be injected directly into the tree’s vascular system to help boost a tree’s “immune system”. More information about systemic injections can be found at www.mauget.com
How to’s and When to’s
Good day everyone! I have collected some valuable information from credible universities of the how to’s and when to’s of tree care. Any questions or suggestions? Feel free to e-mail us at info@affordabletrees.com … Enjoy!
Everything you need to know about Fertilizing:
- When can I Fertilize? : October through March are the best times to fertilize. Soil moisture and temperature conditions are best during these periods, and this will ensure that the fertilizer will be in place at the beginning of the growing season when maximum benefit will be realized. Root growth is best during this time also.
- Do I need to fertilize? : Fertilization can be beneficial if symptoms of a nutrient-deficient tree include a slow rate and low amount of annual growth on twigs and trunk, smaller than normal foliage, off-color foliage, increased amounts of dead branches, tip die-back in branches, and increased rates of disease and insect problems. Trees that possess these symptoms generally would respond to a fertilization treatment
- Be Aware: Too frequent or too heavy fertilization may cause nutrients to build up to toxic levels. This may be avoided by periodic soil testing which will show abnormally high or low nutrient levels.
- Recommended fertilization methods: www.affordabletrees.com/treecare or a granular fertilizer called 12-12-12
Sources: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-618.html
Everything you need to know about pruning:
- Why should I prune?: Reasons for pruning can be broken down into 4 categories: training , maintaining, improving the quality of your tree, and controlling growth.
- When should I prune?: Light pruning can be done any time of the year to remove die back. Extensive pruning should be done in late winter to early spring. This is the best time of the year to prune because wound closure is more rapid (before new shoots emerge), there are few insects/disease spores to infest pruning cuts, and deciduous trees have dropped their leaves so it’s easier to see what your pruning!
- How to Prune: Correct pruning means making a clean, angled cut at the point where a branch attaches, either to another branch or to the trunk of the tree. This is a “thinning” cut. Do not cut into the branch bark ridge or the collar — that darkened, rough bark tissue above and below the branch’s point of attachment. Below is an instructional video on how to properly prune.
Sources: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/1730.html, http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/columngw/grprune.html
Everything you need to know about spraying bagworms:
- About bagworms: Bagworms have a very wide host range but are usually associated with arborvitae or juniper. A single bagworm does relatively little harm as it feeds on leaves. Excessive defoliation may kill conifers within one or two seasons. They hatch in May and June. Upon reaching a suitable host, the worm begins to spin its bag and as it grows, it incorporates some of the host plant foliage into the bag for camouflage.
Picture of an Adult Bagworm
Spraying for bagworms:
- Option 1-Cultural Control-Mechanical Hand Picking If the bags are few in number and easily reached they may be picked off the plant and squashed. This can be done easily in the late fall when deciduous foliage has been dropped or the bits of plant material on the bags turn brown and can be easily located on evergreens. Be sure to cut the attachment silk band so that the branch will not be girdled in the future.
- Option 2-Biological Control-Use the Bacterial Spray Bt The bacterium, Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), is effective against bagworms if it is used against young larvae. Applications should be made at the end of June after all the eggs have hatched and the larvae are through ballooning.
- Option 3-Chemical Control-Insecticide Sprays Stomach insecticides are very useful for control of bagworms. Remember that the plant foliage is to be thoroughly covered because the larvae are protected from contact by being in the silk bag. Again, early sprays in spring against young larvae are more effective than later applications
- Option 4- Preventative Control-Dormant Oil: In the winter spray with a dormant oil to smother overwintering insect eggs without damaging plants.
Sources: http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2149.html, http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/O&T/trees/ort081e/ort081e.htm
Breaking Down Misconceptions!
Hope everyone had an amazing Memorial Day! The weather is starting to heat up, so make sure you water water water! I brainstormed up some common misconceptions within the horticulture industry that I would love to clear up! Feel free to comment, e-mail us, or follow our other interactive websites (www.twitter.com/affordabletrees) or find us on facebook (search: Affordable Trees).
1. Is it too late to plant a tree?
According to Ohio Buckeye Extension, “the biggest misconception in landscaping is people think they can’t plant in the summer, they only can plant in the spring or fall. Actually, the trees can only be dug in the spring before they leave out or after the fall if we have had one or two frosts”. You can plant a tree at anytime!
2. Should my tree be planted with the burlap sack and steel cage still on it?
Affordable Trees purchased biodegradable material, so leaving on the material is not harmful and actually proves to be beneficial. Iowa State University says, “If the root ball is exceptionally sturdy, all burlap, sisal and synthetic twine, and the wire basket can be removed before backfilling begins, however, removing these materials at this stage may result in the loss of root ball integrity and cause root damage.” The burlap and cage promote sturdy root growth and help keep the tree stable in the ground.
http://www.hort.iastate.edu/turfgrass/pubs/turfrpt/1997/ornstudy/Treplant.pdf
3. Should I mulch or add topsoil back on top of the tree?
One very common question is why mulch is so vital to the survival of your newly installed tree? According to North Carolina State, “Mulching trees and shrubs is a good method to reduce landscape maintenance and keep plants healthy. Mulch helps conserve moisture — 10 to 25 percent reduction in soil moisture loss from evaporation. Mulches help keep the soil well aerated by reducing soil compaction that results when raindrops hit the soil. They also reduce water runoff and soil erosion. Mulches prevent soil and possible fungi from splashing on the foliage —- thus reducing the likelihood of soil-borne diseases. They help maintain a more uniform soil temperature (warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer) and promote the growth of soil microorganisms and earth worms.” I also personally think mulching around the tree gives it a nicer look and helps alleviate the pain of mowing beneath the tree. On the flip side, adding topsoil can “can reduce the movement of oxygen to tree roots, causing them to die”, according to Iowa State University.
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/trees-new/text/muching.html
http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Publications/SUL2.pdf
4. Raising the ball above grade
According to Iowa State, “the depth of the planting hole should be approximately two-thirds of the height of the root ball. When placed in the hole, the top one-third of the soil ball should be above the surrounding soil”. With Indiana’s clay soil, it is important to promote the drainage of water. Denny Schuch, a tree expert in the Sheridan location, says “The number one killer of trees is kindness”. Placing trees above grade will help prevent over watering.
http://www.ces.purdue.edu/extmedia/fnr/fnr-faq-18-w.pdf
5. I have an “irrigation” system, isn’t that enough?
I often find it the case that tree owners with irrigation systems tend to have watering issues. Irrigation systems are designed for turf, shrubs, and shallow-rooted plants, all of which have different requirements than a newly installed tree. If an irrigation system is in place, make sure you are still checking soil conditions and adding or prolonging watering sessions. If watering is an issue, I recommend investing in a tree gator. (http://www.treegator.com/)
6. Should I amend the soil?
“Contrary to popular belief, soil removed from the planting hole is the most appropriate backfill material. Soil amendments like peat moss, ground bark, and composted manures mixed with the native oil and used as backfill have not proven beneficial to tree establishment. In fact, studies have shown tree root systems in amended soils remain confined to the amended soil in the planting hole, while trees planted without the “benefit” of soil amendments developed roots far beyond the original planting hole. And on poorly-drained sites, soil amendments can collect too much water. Because amended soil has greater pore space than surrounding clay soil, water will move into it preferentially.”
http://www.hort.iastate.edu/turfgrass/pubs/turfrpt/1997/ornstudy/Treplant.pdf